Birding Uganda, 22.07.2015 - 29.07.2015

Joseph and I had been planning this for a while - it was time to get into the West Uganda forests of Budongo and Semliki to see some of the Guinea-Congo rainforest specials. Semliki is the only such forest in Uganda - and DRC is too dangerous (in spite of its enticing visa-free entry policy) - which made this trip even more special!

Places visited over the trip:

1. Budongo Forest (The "Royal Mile")
2. Murchison Falls National Park
3. Semliki National Park
4. Kibale Forest
5. Bigodi Wetlands
6. Mabamba Swamp

Joseph and I both bagged many lifers - especially the Ugandan specials such as the bizarre Shoebill, Cassin's Hawk-Eagle, Lemon-Bellied Crombec, Piping Hornbill, Gabon Woodpecker, Blue-Billed Malimbe, Red-Rumped Tinkerbird and the very rare Ituri Batis. It was also our first time to cross the Nile by ferry - which we both found quite fascinating with the amazing view of the Ugandan grasslands along the river. Uganda is truly a special country! We spotted 272 species overall, with notably great views of the Great Blue Turaco and the Red-Headed Malimbe.

Birds spotted over the entire trip:

Abyssinian Ground Hornbill

1. Reed Cormorant - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
2. African Darter - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
3. Pink-Backed Pelican - 1 at Mabamba Swamp
4. Cattle Egret - Many near cattle and buffalo
5. Great Egret - 3 at Murchison Falls NP
6. Purple Heron - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
7. Grey Heron - Several near all types of water bodies
8. Black-Headed Heron - 2 at Bigodi Wetlands
9. Goliath Heron - 1 flying along the Nile at Murchison Falls NP
10. Hamerkop - 3 at Mabamba Swamp
11. African Openbill - 2 at Lake Victoria
12. Woolly-Necked Stork - 2 flying over Lake Victoria
13. Saddle-Billed Stork - 2 flying around Murchison Falls NP
14. Marabou Stork - Common and unmistakeable in all urban areas
15. Shoebill - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
16. Glossy Ibis - 1 at Murchison Falls NP

African Dwarf Kingfisher

17. Hadada Ibis - Everywhere including the airport!
18. Egyptian Goose - 2 at Lake Victoria
19. Yellow-Billed Duck - 3 at Mabamba Swamp
20. Osprey - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
21. African Cuckoo-Hawk - 1 at a forest on the way from Budongo to Semliki
22. Black-Shouldered Kite - 1 on the way near Semliki
23. Black Kite - 4 near Entebbe
24. Palm-Nut Vulture - 3 at Semliki
25. Black-Chested Snake-Eagle - 1 at Kibale Forest
26. Short-Toed Snake Eagle - 1 at Semliki
27. Brown Snake-Eagle - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
28. Western Banded Snake-Eagle - 1 at Semliki
29. Bateleur - 3 at Murchison Falls NP
30. African Harrier-Hawk - 1 at Budongo Forest
31. Eastern Chanting Goshawk - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
32. African Goshawk (melanistic) - 1 at Murchison Falls NP

African Green Pigeon

33. Black Sparrowhawk (Great Sparrowhawk) - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
34. Lizard Buzzard - Several sitting on wires on the way from Budongo to Semliki
35. Tawny Eagle - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
36. Wahlberg's Eagle - 1 in Budongo Forest
37. Long-Crested Eagle - Several all over Uganda
38. Cassin's Hawk-Eagle - 2 in Budongo Forest
39. Martial Eagle - 1 flying in Murchison Falls NP
40. Grey Kestrel - 2 near Mabamba Swamp
41. Peregrine Falcon - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
42. Crested Guineafowl - Flock of 6 in Budongo Forest
43. Helmeted Guineafowl - Flocks in Budongo Forest and Murchison Falls NP
44. Crested Francolin - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
45. Heuglin's Francolin - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
46. Black Crake - 3 in Mabamba Swamp
47. Grey Crowned Crane - 2 at Murchison Falls NP

African Openbill

48. Black-Bellied Bustard - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
49. African Jacana - 3 in Mabamba Swamp
50. Water Thick-knee - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
51. African Wattled Lapwing - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
52. Black-Headed Lapwing - 12 at Murchison Falls NP
53. Spur-Winged Lapwing - Many at Murchison Falls NP
54. Long-Toed Lapwing - 1 in Mabamba Swamp
55. Wood Sandpiper - 1 in Mabamba Swamp
56. African Green Pigeon - 3 in Bigodi Wetlands
57. Tambourine Dove - Many in Budongo and Semliki
58. Blue-Spotted Wood Dove - 1 in Bigodi Wetlands
59. Emerald-Spotted Wood Dove - 1 in Mabamba Swamp
60. Namaqua Dove - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
61. White-Naped Pigeon - 2 in Semliki
62. Rock Dove - Many in urban areas

African Shrike-Flycatcher

63. Red-Eyed Dove - 2 in Bigodi Wetlands and several in Budongo
64. African Mourning Dove - Several all over Uganda
65. Ring-Necked Dove - Many at Murchison Falls NP
66. Grey Parrot - 2 in Kibale Forest
67. Meyer's Parrot (Brown Parrot) - 2 on the way from Semliki to Entebbe
68. Great Blue Turaco - Several at a forest on the way from Budongo to Semliki
69. Black-Billed Turaco - 1 in Semliki
70. Ross's Turaco - 2 in Kibale Forest
71. White-Crested Turaco - 1 in Budongo
72. Bare-Faced Go-away Bird - 1 on the way from Semliki to Entebbe
73. Eastern Grey Plantain-Eater - Common throughout Uganda
74. Jacobin Cuckoo - 1 in Budongo
75. Levaillant's Cuckoo - 1 in Semliki
76. Red-Chested Cuckoo - 2 in Budongo and 1 in Kibale Forest
77. Dusky Long-Tailed Cuckoo - 1 in Budongo
78. African Emerald Cuckoo - 1 in Kibale Forest

African Wattled Lapwing

79. Yellowbill - 1 in Budongo, 1 in Semliki and 2 in Kibale Forest
80. White-Browed Coucal - 1 on the way from Budongo to Semliki
81. Spotted Eagle-Owl - 6 at Murchison Falls NP
82. Greyish Eagle-Owl - 3 at Murchison Falls NP
83. Pearl-Spotted Owlet - 1 in Budongo
84. African Wood Owl - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
85. Marsh Owl - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
86. Freckled Nightjar - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
87. Mottled Spinetail - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
88. African Palm Swift - Many at Murchison Falls NP
89. Alpine Swift - 2 in Kibale Forest
90. Blue-Naped Mousebird - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
91. Speckled Mousebird - Many in all forests
92. Narina Trogon - 1 in Budongo
93. Chocolate-Backed Kingfisher - 1 in Budongo

Black Bee-Eater

94. Blue-Breasted Kingfisher - 2 in Budongo
95. Grey-Headed Kingfisher - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
96. Woodland Kingfisher -1 in Budongo
97. Striped Kingfisher - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
98. African Dwarf Kingfisher - 2 in Budongo
99. African Pygmy Kingfisher - 3 in Budongo and 1 in Semliki
100. Malachite Kingfisher - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
101. Shining-blue Kingfisher - 1 at a lake on the way from Budongo to Semliki
102. Giant Kingfisher - 1 at a lake on the way from Budongo to Semliki
103. Pied Kingfisher - 2 in Semliki
104. Blue-Breasted Bee-Eater - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
105. Swallow-Tailed Bee-Eater - 4 at Murchison Falls NP
106. Red-Throated Bee-Eater - 3 at Murchison Falls NP
107. Madagascar Bee-Eater - 3 at Murchison Falls NP
108. Northern Carmine Bee-Eater - 6 at Murchison Falls NP
109. Blue-Throated Roller - 2 in Semliki

Black-and-white Casqued Hornbill

110. Broad-Billed Roller - Many at Murchison Falls NP
111. Abyssinian Ground Hornbill - 2 in Budongo and 4 at Murchison Falls NP
112. Red-Billed Hornbill - 1 on the way from Semliki to Entebbe
113. African Pied Hornbill - 2 in Budongo
114. African Grey Hornbill - 2 in Budongo, 1 in Kibale Forest
115. Piping Hornbill - 1 in Semliki
116. Black-and-white Casqued Hornbill - Several in Budongo, Semliki and Kibale Forest
117. White-Thighed Hornbill - 4 in Budongo
118. Speckled Tinkerbird - 2 in Semliki, 1 in Kibale Forest
119. Red-Rumped Tinkerbird - 1 in Semliki
120. Yellow-Throated Tinkerbird - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
121. Yellow-Rumped Tinkerbird - 2 in Semliki
122. Yellow-Spotted Barbet - 2 in Semliki
123. Hairy-Breasted Barbet - 2 in Kibale Forest
124. White-Headed Barbet - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
125. Black-Billed Barbet - 4 at Murchison Falls NP

Black-Billed Barbet

126. Double-Toothed Barbet - 2 on the way from Semliki to Entebbe
127. Yellow-Billed Barbet - 1 in Budongo and 1 in Kibale Forest
128. Cassin's Honeybird - 1 in Kibale Forest
129. Scaly-Throated Honeyguide - 1 in Kibale Forest
130. Lesser Honeyguide - 1 at a lake between Budongo and Semliki
131. Pallid Honeyguide - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
132. Nubian Woodpecker - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
133. Brown-Eared Woodpecker - 1 in Kibale Forest
134. Yellow-Crested Woodpecker - 2 in Budongo
135. White-Headed Saw-wing - 2 in Kibale Forest
136. Red-Breasted Swallow - 1 on the way from Semliki to Entebbe
137. Lesser Striped Swallow - Several on wires across Uganda
138. Wire-Tailed Swallow - 3 at Murchison Falls NP
139. Angola Swallow - 4 on the way from Semliki to Entebbe

Black-Headed Lapwing

140. African Pied Wagtail - Common near all water bodies
141. Cape Wagtail - 1 in Mabamba Swamp
142. African Pipit (Grassland Pipit) - 1 in Bigodi Wetlands
143. Petit's Cuckoo-Shrike - 1 in Kibale Forest
144. Little Greenbul - Many in Budongo, Semliki and Kibale Forest
145. Little Grey Greenbul - 2 in Budongo and 1 in Kibale forest
146. Plain Greenbul (Cameroon Sombre Greenbul) - Many in Budongo and Kibale Forest
147. Slender-Billed Greenbul - Few in Budongo, Semliki and Kibale Forest
148. Yellow-Whiskered Greenbul - 3 in Semliki
149. Honeyguide Greenbul - 3 in Kibale Forest
150. Spotted Greenbul - 4 in Budongo
151. Leaf-love - 2 in Semliki
152. Toro Olive Greenbul - 1 in Budongo
153. White-Throated Greenbul - 2 in Semliki
154. Red-Tailed Bristlebill - 2 in Kibale Forest

Black-Headed Weaver (Village Weaver)

155. Green-Tailed Bristlebill - 2 in Kibale Forest
156. Red-Tailed Greenbul - 1 in Budongo
157. Common Bulbul - Abundant in open areas
158. Western Nicator - 1 in Budongo and 2 in Semliki
159. Forest RObin - 2 in Semliki
160. Lowland Akalat - 3 in Semliki
161. Cape Robin-Chat - 1 in Kibale Forest
162. Blue-Shouldered Robin-Chat - 1 in Semliki
163. White-Browed Robin-Chat - 3 at Murchison Falls NP
164. Red-Capped Robin-Chat - 1 in Budongo
165. Snowy-Crowned Robin-Chat - 2 in Bigodi Wetlands
166. Sooty Chat - 3 at Murchison Falls NP
167. Fire-Crested Alethe - 1 in Semliki
168. Red-Tailed Ant-Thrush - 3 in Semliki and 1 in Kibale Forest
169. White-Tailed Ant-Thrush - 2 in Kibale Forest
170. Rufous Flycatcher-Thrush - 1 in Budongo, 1 in Semliki and 2 in Kibale Forest
171. African Thrush - 1 at Murchison Falls NP

Blue-Breasted Kingfisher

172. White-Winged Warbler - 1 in Bigodi Wetlands
173. Rufous-Crowned Eremomela - 3 in Budongo
174. Green Crombec - 2 in Semliki
175. Lemon-Bellied Crombec - 2 in Budongo
176. Yellow-Bellied Hyliota - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
177. Green Hylia - 1 in Semliki
178. Red-Faced Cisticola - 1 in Budongo
179. Winding Cisticola - 3 in Mabamba Swamp
180. Tawny-Flanked Prinia - 3 at Murchison Falls NP
181. White-Chinned Prinia - 2 in Budongo and 5 in Kibale Forest
182. Black-Capped Apalis - 1 in Budongo
183. Buff-THroated Apalis - 2 in Budongo and 1 in Kibale Forest
184. Green-Backed Camaroptera - Many in Budongo, Semliki and Kibale Forest
185. Olive-Green Camaroptera - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
186. Grey-Capped Warbler - 1 on the way from Semliki to Entebbe
187. Northern Black Flycatcher - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
188. Pale Flycatcher - 1 at Murchison Falls NP

Blue-Throated Roller

189. Silverbird - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
190. Ashy Flycatcher - 2 in Budongo and 3 in Semliki
191. Swamp Flycatcher - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
192. Grey-Throated Tit-Flycatcher - 2 in Bigodi Wetlands
193. Grey Tit-Flycatcher - 1 in Bigodi Wetlands
194. African Blue Flycatcher - 2 in Bigodi Wetlands
195. African Paradise Flycatcher - 4 in Budongo and 3 at Murchison Falls NP
196. Red-Bellied Paradise Flycatcher - Many in Budongo, Semliki and Kibale Forest
197. African Shrike-Flycatcher - 2 in Budongo
198. Black-and-white Shrike Flycatcher - 2 in Bigodi Wetlands
199. Chestnut Wattle-Eye - 2 in Budongo and 2 in Kibale Forest
200. Brown-Throated Wattle-Eye - 2 in Semliki
201. Chinspot Batis - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
202. Ituri Batis - 2 in Budongo
203. Dusky Tit - 6 in Budongo

Broad-Billed Roller

204. Green Sunbird - 4 in Budongo and 2 in Kibale Forest
205. Little Green Sunbird - 2 in Budongo
206. Blue-Throated Brown Sunbird - 4 in Budongo and 2 in Kibale Forest
207. Blue-Headed Sunbird - 1 in Semliki
208. Western Olive Sunbird - Several in Budongo, Semliki and Kibale Forest
209, Green-Throated Sunbird - 1 in Bigodi Wetlands
210. Scarlet-Chested Sunbird - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
211. Bronzy Sunbird - 1 in Bigodi Wetlands
212. Collared Sunbird - 5 in Kibale Forest
213. Olive-Bellied Sunbird - 1 in Budongo and 2 in Kibale Forest
214. Beautiful Sunbird - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
215. Marico Sunbird - 2 in Budongo
216. Red-Chested Sunbird - 1 on the way from Semliki to Entebbe
217. Purple-Banded Sunbird - 1 in Kibale Forest
218. Variable Sunbird - 1 at a lake between Budongo and Semliki
219. African Yellow White-Eye - 2 in Bigodi Wetlands
220. Common Fiscal - 2 in Kibale Forest

Double-Toothed Barbet

221. Grey-Backed Fiscal - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
222. Brown-Crowned Tchagra - 4 at Murchison Falls NP
223. Black-Headed Gonolek - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
224. White-Crested Helmet-Shrike - 4 at Murchison Falls NP
225. Western Black-Headed Oriole - 1 in Budongo and 1 in Kibale Forest
226. Eastern Black-Headed Oriole - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
227. Fork-Tailed Drongo - 2 in Kibale Forest
228. Velvet-Mantled Drongo - 6 at Murchison Falls NP
229. Pied Crow - Common crow in urban areas
230. Piapiac - 15 at Murchison Falls NP
231. Waller's Starling - 2 in Kibale Forest
232. Purple-Headed Starling - 2 in Budongo
233. Greater Blue-Eared Starling - 2 in Semliki
234. Splendid Starling - 1 in Bigodi Wetlands
235. Ruppell's Long-Tailed Starling - 4 at Murchison Falls NP

Eastern Chanting Goshawk (immature)

236. Violet-Backed Starling - 2 at Murchison Falls NP and 1 in Kibale Forest
237. Yellow-Billed Oxecker - Many in Murchison Falls NP
238. Red-Billed Oxpecker - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
239. Grey-Headed Sparrow - Many in rural areas
240. Sheley's Rufous Sparrow (Kenya Rufous Sparrow) - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
241. Chestnut-Crowned Sparrow-Weaver - 1 at Murchison Falls NP
242. Speckle-Fronted Weaver - 4 at Murchison Falls NP
243. Crested Malimbe - 1 in Budongo
244. Red-Headed Malimbe - 2 in Budongo and 1 in Kibale Forest
245. Blue-Billed Malimbe - 1 in Semliki
246. Slender-Billed Weaver - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
247. Black-Necked Weaver - 4 in Bigodi Wetlands
248. Lesser Masked Weaver - 1 in Fort Portal
249. Vieillot's Black Weaver - Abundant throughout Uganda
250. Village Weaver (Black-Headed Weaver) - Abundant throughout Uganda
251. Yellow-Backed Weaver - 3 in Budongo

Eastern Grey Plantain-Eater

252. Yellow-Mantled Weaver - 2 in Budongo
253. Maxwell's Black Weaver - 7 in Semliki
254. Grosbeak Weaver - 2 in Budongo and 3 in Bigodi Wetlands
255. Red-Billed Quelea - Large flock at Murchison Falls NP
256. Northern Red Bishop - 6 at Murchison Falls NP
257. Black Bishop - Common in all open areas with reeds or tall grass
258. Yellow-Mantled Widowbird - 3 at Murchison Falls NP
259. Fan-Tailed Widowbird - 2 in Bigodi Wetlands and 1 in Mabamba Swamp
260. Grey-Headed Negrofinch - 1 on the way from Budongo to Semliki
261, White-Breasted Negrofinch - 1 in Budongo
262. Fawn-Breasted Waxbill - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
263. Black-Crowned Waxbill - 6 at Murchison Falls NP
264. Red-Headed Bluebill - 2 in Budongo
265. Red-Cheeked Cordon-bleu - 12 at Murchison Falls NP
266. Black-Bellied Firefinch - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
267. Bronze Mannikin - 2 in Semliki and 3 in Kibale Forest
268. Black-and-white Mannikin - 4 at Murchison Falls NP
269. African Silverbill - 2 at Murchison Falls NP
270. Pin-Tailed Whydah - Several in all open areas and Murhcison Falls NP
271. Yellow-Fronted Canary - 2 at Murchison Falls NP and 1 in Kibale Forest
272. Brimstone Canary - 2 in Budongo

Giant Kingfisher

Great Blue Turaco

Grey Crowned Crane

Grey-Headed Kingfisher

Grey-Headed Sparrow

Hairy-Breasted Barbet

Levaillant's Cuckoo

Lizard Buzzard

Pale Flycatcher

Palm-Nut Vulture

Piapiac

Pin-Tailed Whydah

Red-Bellied Paradise Flycatcher

Red-Tailed Ant-Thrush

Rufous Flycatcher-Thrush

Shining-Blue Kingfisher

Swallow-Tailed Bee-Eater

Tawny Eagle

Violet-Backed Starling

Water Thick-Knee

Our last day at Mabamba swamp got washed out due to heavy rain, else we were hoping to give 300 species a shot! Joseph and I were quite satisfied with 272 species which included 3 days of forest birding and 2 days of long-distance driving with intermittent birding. We were lucky with many specials on the trip but also missed out on some Semliki specials like White-Crested Hornbill, Red-Billed and Black Dwarf Hornbills, Yellow-Throated Nicator, Fiery-Breasted Bush-Shrike, Brown-Throated Parrot and Red-Bellied Malimbe. It just means we have to visit Uganda again :)

We also discussed implementing some of the tools developed at AviPulse for education and bird conservation in the Baringo region of Kenya, where Joseph is from. I'm really excited to see how this proceeds and to expand the global reach of AviPulse for bird conservation!

We have covered most of the East African species with the Kenya and Uganda birding trips. The next plan is to bird Western Africa starting with Gabon. Can't wait to get back to amazing Africa!

Mainland Ecuador, 19.03.2015 - 30.03.2015

The serene pacific coast, the mighty Andes and the virid Amazonian rainforest, all packed into one tiny South American nation of Ecuador. Where else would I rather spend a spring break with the plethora of wildlife, especially hummingbirds, photogenic landscapes and rich culture that Ecuador has to offer?

The sweltering sun in the Amazon was quite a contrast from hiking in 6-feet of snow in the Canadian Cascades only a week earlier. Add camping below freezing along the Andean paramos within 2 days to that. Descriptions of landscapes, culture, people, climates and the amazing geography of Ecuador can fill diaries of memories. All that along with fishing piranha, swimming in thermal springs in the Andean foothills, wading through waist-high Amazonian flooded rainforests, eating lemon ants and other crazy Ecuadorian adventures have been captured by Constantin in his entertaining blogpost http://thirld.com/blog/2015/06/04/road-trip-in-ecuador/. 

Places visited:

Mindo

Cayambe-Coca Ecologocal Reserve (from Papallacta)

Yasuni National Park (from Coca)

Sangay National Park (from Banos)

Machalilla National Park including Isla de la Plata (from Puerto Lopez)

The raucous Andean Cock-of-the-rock lek, the mighty Andean Condor, the iconic White-Throated Toucan and the bizarre-looking Hoatzin were definitely the stand-out birds for the trip. Other fascinating species like the Purplish Jacamar, Slaty-Backed Forest-Falcon, White-Chinned Jacamar, Viridian Metaltail, Red-Billed Tropicbird and White-Necked Jacobin made unexpected appearances at various points of the trip, but were pleasant surprises to say the least. 

Birds spotted during the trip:

Blue-Footed Booby

1. Cinereous Tinamou - 1 in Yasuni National Park

2. Blue-Footed Booby - 20+ on Isla de la Plata

3. Nazca Booby - 6 on Isle de la Plata

4. Red-Footed Booby - 3 on Isla de la Plata

5. Anhinga - 2 in Yasuni National Park

6. Magnificent Frigatebird - Hundreds soaring over Puerto Lopez and huge roosting site on Isla de la Plata

7. Brown Pelican - 15 near Puerto Lopez

8. Striated Heron - 1 in Yasuni National Park

9. Roseate Spoonbill - 2 in Yasuni National Park along the Napo river

10. Snowy Egret - 8 in Yasuni National Park

11. Little Blue Heron - 2 in Yasuni National Park

12. Cattle Egret - several throughout grazing pastures in the eastern lowlands

13. Great Egret - 1 in Yasuni National Park

14. Andean Teal - 6 in Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve

15. Andean Condor - 1 in Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve

16. Turkey Vulture - 3 in Coca and 4 near Puerto Lopez

Nazca Booby

17. Black Vulture - hundreds throughout lowlands

18. Osprey - 1 in Yasuni National Park

19. Swallow-Tailed Kite - 2 in Mindo

20. Common Black-Hawk - 2 in Yasuni National Park

21. Great Black-Hawk - 1 in Yasuni National Park

22. Roadside Hawk - 3 in Mindo

23. Broad-Winged Hawk - 1 in Mindo

24. Slaty-Backed Forest-Falcon - 1 in Yasuni National Park

25. Black Caracara - 2 calls in Yasuni National Park

26. Peregrine Falcon - 1 in Yasuni National Park

27. Bat Falcon - 2 in Yasuni National Park

28. Common Piping-Guan - 3 heard in Yasuni National Park

29. Sickle-Winged Guan - 1 in Mindo

30. Least Sandpiper - 1 in Puerto Lopez

31. Andean Gull - 2 in Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve

Magnificent Frigatebird

32. Ruddy Pigeon - 1 in Mindo

33. Ruddy Quail-Dove - 2 in Yasuni National Park

34. Eared Dove - several in Agua Blanca in Machalilla National Park

35. Ecuadorian Ground-Dove - 12 in Machalilla National Park

36. White-Tipped Dove - 1 in Mindo

37. Blue-and-Yellow-Macaw - 2 in Yasuni National Park

38. Scarlet Macaw - 2 in Yasuni National Park

39. Red-and-Green Macaw - 3 in Yasuni National Park

40. Chestnut-Fronted Macaw - 2 in Yasuni National Park

41. Cobalt-Winged Parakeet - hundreds in Yasuni National Park

42. Scarlet-Shouldered Parrotlet - 2 in Yasuni National Park

43. Black-Headed Parrot - 2 calls heard in Yasuni National Park

44. Dusky-Headed Parakeet - 20+ in Yasuni National Park

45. White-Eyed Parakeet - 2 in Yasuni National Park

Roseate Spoonbill

46. Blue-Headed Parrot - 1 in Yasuni National Park

47. Red-Billed Parrot - 8 in Mindo

48. Orange-Winged Amazon - 4 in Yasuni National Park

49. Yellow-Crowned Amazon - 20+ in Yasuni National Park

50. Mealy Amazon - 20+ in Yasuni National Park

51. Squirrel Cuckoo - 2 in Mindo

52. Greater Ani - several in Yasuni National Park 

53. Smooth-Billed Ani - several in Machalilla National Park

54. Groove-Billed Ani - several in Machalilla National Park

55. Hoatzin - 5 in Yasuni National Park

56. Common Potoo - 1 in Mindo

57. White-Collared Swift - several in Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve

58. Rufous-Vented Whitetip - 2 in Yasuni National Park

59. White-Necked Jacobin - 1 in Mindo

Eared Dove

60. Rufous-Tailed Hummingbird - 2 in Mindo

61. Green-Crowned Woodnymph - 1 in Mindo

62. Buff-Tailed Coronet - 1 in Mindo

63. Red-Necked Woodpecker - 1 in Yasuni National Park

64. Golden-Headed Quetzal - 3 in Mindo

65. Ringed Kingfisher - 2 in Yasuni National Park

66. Amazon Kingfisher - 1 in Yasuni National Park

67. Blue-Crowned Motmot - 3 in Machalilla National Park

68. White-Chinned Jacamar - 1 in Yasuni National Park

69. Purplish Jacamar - 1 in Yasuni National Park

70. Red-Headed Barbet - 1 in Mindo

71. Black-Fronted Nunbird - 5 in Yasuni National Park

72. White-Fronted Nunbird - 2 in Yasuni National Park

73. Pale-Mandibled Aracari - 3 in Mindo

Scarlet Macaw

74. White-Throated Toucan - 1 in Yasuni National Park

75. Channel-Billed Toucan - 1 in Yasuni National Park

76. Golden-Olive Woodpecker - 1 in Coca

77. Smoky-Brown Woodpecker - 1 in Mindo

78. Chestnut Woodpecker - 1 in Yasuni National Park

79. Olivaceous Piculet - 1 in Mindo

80. Yellow-Tufted Woodpecker - 2 in Yasuni National Park

81. Plain-Brown Woodcreeper - 2 in Mindo and 1 in Yasuni National Park

82. Cinnamon-Throated Woodcreeper - 1 in Yasuni National Park

83. Ocellated Woodcreeper - 2 in Yasuni National Park

84. Spotted Woodcreeper - 2 in Mindo

85. Streak-Headed Woodcreeper - 1 in Mindo

86. Red-Faced Spinetail - 1 in Mindo

87. Lineated Foliage-Gleaner - 3 in Mindo

Cobalt-Winged Parakeet

88. Scaly-Throated Foliage-Gleaner - 2 in Mindo

89. Buff-Fronted Foliage-Gleaner - 6 in Mindo

90. Pacific Hornero - 1 in Machalilla National Park

91. Tawny Antpitta - 4 in Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve

92. Golden-Faced Tyrannulet - 2 in Mindo

93. Yellow Tyrannulet - 1 in Mindo

94. Slaty-Capped Flycatcher - 4 in Mindo

95. White-Crested Elaenia - 2 in Mindo

96. Scale-Crested Pygmy-Tyrant - 1 in Mindo

97. Vermillion Flycatcher - 2 in Machalilla National Park

98. Black Phoebe - 1 in Mindo

99. Drab Water-Tyrant - 8 in Yasuni National Park

100. Cinnamon Attila - 1 in Yasuni National Park

101. Dusky-Capped Flycatcher - 4 in Yasuni National Park

102. Tropical Kingbird - several in Mindo and Yasuni National Park

103. Masked Tityra - 1 in Mindo

Dusky-Headed Parakeet

104. Black-Crowned Tityra - 1 in Yasuni National Park

105. Black-and-White Becard - 1 in Machalilla National Park

106. Plum-Throated Cotinga - 1 in Yasuni National Park

107. Amazonian Umbrellabird - 1 in Yasuni National Park

108. Andean Cock-of-the-rock - 8 in a lek in Mindo

109. Green Manakin - 1 in Yasuni National Park

110. Brown-Chested Martin - 2 in Coca

111. Gray-Breasted Martin - 4 in Coca

112. Blue-and-White Swallow - 8 in Mindo

113. Gray-Breasted Wood-Wren - 2 in Mindo

114. Lesser Greenlet - 2 in Mindo

115. Swainson's Thrush - 1 in Mindo

116. Glossy-Black Thrush - 12 in Sangay National Park

117. Tropical Parula - 2 in Mindo

Red-Billed Parrot

118. Blackburnian Warbler - 2 in Mindo

119. Slate-Throated Whitestart - 1 in Mindo

120. Three-Striped Warbler - 1 in Mindo

121. Bananaquit - 1 in Mindo

122. Golden-Rumped Euphonia - 12 in Mindo

123. Yellow-Bellied Euphonia - 3 in Mindo

124. Green-and-Gold Tanager - 1 in Yasuni National Park

125. Turquoise Tanager - 2 in Yasuni National Park

126. Bay-Headed Tanager - 1 in Mindo

127. Golden Tanager - 1 in Mindo

128. Blue-and-Black Tanager - 1 in Yasuni National Park

129. Scarlet-Bellied Mountain-Tanager - 1 in Papallacta

130. Blue-Gray Tanager - 5 in Mindo

131. Lemon-Rumped Tanager - 8 in Mindo

132. White-Shouldered Tanager - 1 in Mindo

133. Yellow-Throated Bush-Tanager - 7 in Mindo

Mealy Amazon

134. Southern Yellow-Grosbeak - 2 in Machalilla National Park

135, Variable Seedeater - 1 in Mindo

136. Yellow-Bellied Seedeater - 1 in Mindo

137. Black-Striped Sparrow - 1 in Mindo

138. Pale-Naped Brush-Finch - 2 in Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve

139. Paramo Pipit - 2 in Cayambe-Coca National Park

140. Rufous-Collared Sparrow - 2 in Quito

141. Long-Tailed Mockingbird - several in Machalilla National Park

142. Yellow-Rumped Cacique - 1 in Machalilla National Park

143. Crested Oropendola - several in Yasuni National Park

144. Russet-Backed Oropendola - 8 in Yasuni National Park

145. Red-Breasted Blackbird - 3 in Machalilla National Park

146. Peruvian Blackbird - 1 in Machalilla National Park

147. Scrub Blackbird - many in Machalilla National Park

148. Stout-Billed Cinclodes - 8 in Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve

149. Viridian Metaltail - 1 in Sangay National Park

Hoatzin

Common Potoo

Viridian Metaltail

Golden-Headed Quetzal

Red-Headed Barbet

White-Fronted Nunbird

Plain Brown Woodcreeper

Vermillion Flycatcher

Black-and-White Becard

Andean Cock-of-the-rock

Brown-Chested Martin

Variable Seedeater

Most trips in Ecuador can be done without guides and tours, unlike popular belief, if it is given a little thought and planning. Of course, coming straight out of Canada I had put in no thought or effort into planning, but found out ways of doing everything alone. 

Yasuni National Park - Get a ferry from Coca to Nuevo Rocafuerte. Either atNuevo Rocafuerte, or the town before it (name starts with a P), one can find lodging for about $10 a night with a local tribe. This is a much better experience than taking a tour! Luckily, I could find a local Kichwa man to take us to Yasuni by boat, but that may not always work out. Once at the village on the Napo river, it is easy to ask a local to take you to different places in Yasuni National Park by boat for sub-$50 price. Do not miss the clay licking of parrots, parakeets and macaws!

Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve - Get to Papallacta, a small village tucked away in the cushions of the Andes, and stay at a local's house. We got a little room with a nice thermal spring to swim in which was as pleasant a surprise as any other on a cold rainy evening. The entrance to the reserve is past the Thermas de Papallacta, past a guarded gate and 4km further on a road that could test any car's suspensions. Once into the reserve, you are immersed into a landscape like no other - paramos, interconnected lakes dotted with Andean teal, waterfalls resounding from all sides, beautiful hills and their glimmering reflections in the myriad of lakes and a zephyr wafting through the air.

Machalilla National Park - This is the easiest to enter, but with a little planning. We tried to get in through Julcuy which turned out to be a massive blooper, and we ended up pushing our car through 2 feet of wet mud swirling at our feet - it was bad enough for me to discard my shoes as soon as we made it out of the muddy mess. In short - approach through Puerto Lopez (via Jipijapa if entering from the east). There are clear gates for Agua Blanca which is the park entrance and Los Frailes, which is one of the most amazing beaches I've been to in recent times. From Agua Blanca, you need to be lucky that the little river flowing through has not inundated the village and blocked the entrance to San Sebastian completely. Unfortunately, this happens more often than not and you are only confined to the west of the river that holds a so-called museum with handwritten theories and a knee-deep sulphurous lagoon packed with Gringos like a sardine can. You definitely want the east side of the river with the Incan archaeological;site and the San Sebastian trail.

Isla de la Plata is also a part of this national park and has to be reached through an agency, unfortunately. It is an hour and a half boat ride from Puerto Lopez or Puerto Cayo, but is the only roosting site of the Nazca Booby in Ecuador. Definitely worth the visit, especially if it includes watching sea turtles and snorkeling with piranha.

Mindo - Mindo is just a town famous for its birds, and is very easy to get to. It is right off the mountainous highway from Quito to Santa Domingo (past a few traffic jams, slow-moving lorries and landslides that convert the highway into a stony one-and-a-half-lane camel-ride). We met Alex there who knew the location of an Andean Cock-of-the-rock lek and the (unusually conspicuous) roosting spot of an Andean Potoo. Since Mindo has become famous for its birds, especially aracaris, quetzals and pygmy-tyrants, most people in Mindo know about the birds and can give directions to interesting birding spots. Look for the Black-and-White Owl while in Mindo!