Southern Mexico, 17.12.2014 - 29.12.2014

It was the last birding trip of 2014, and the first half of the winter break. It was the time of the year I desperately wanted to go south and escape the chills of winter in Berkeley. I cancelled Costa Rica plans and booked last minute tickets to Cancun, Mexico after discussing with Wojciech, a really smart Polish Physics student at Berkeley. 

Plain Chachalaca

Wojciech joined me a day later in Mexico, and by that time I had already rounded up the commoner birds in Yum Balam National Park with the Blue-Crowned Motmot standing out. We immediately headed out of Cancun to Isla Holbox, which is a 1-hour ferry away from Chiquila. Isla Holbox and especially Isla Pajaros were great nesting sites to spot all types of waders and the Magnificent Frigatebird. We camped on the beach, kayaked through the mangroves and swam pretty far from the coast in shallow seas. Overall, Isla Holbox is one of those places none of the Americans seem to know about, but the Europeans love - it is quiet, small, not rampaged by tourists every year, but has enough to sustain a decent vacation.

Altamira Oriole

Once we were done with Holbox, we decided to explore Yum Balam National Park from its western side through Solferino. We found out Gilberto, locally known as Gilapa, was the expert in the town. With nothing but the name, we tracked Gilberto down in the most ridiculous fashion - I drove from house to house, and Wojciech jumped out and crashed every house asking for our man. Victims included an old woman cooking dinner, a drunk girl, a construction worker and a restaurant owner. We finally blocked Gilapa's path as he was parking his white minivan and told him about our request to see birds. Surprised, bemused, but also excited, he readily agreed and we found a back-country way into the forests. The day started with a decent view of the Keel-Billed Toucan followed by several forest specialties and a juvenile Crane Hawk, which the three of us took about twenty minutes to identify. Gilapa saw his first Canivet's Emerald, with which he was quite excited and then we immediately tracked down a Collared Micrastur from its call. Overall, pretty decent birding. Gilapa also showed us his efforts for conservation and photographs of Jaguars, Ocelots, Margays, Pumas and Ocellated Turkeys from the park.

Bare-Throated Tiger-Heron

We left late in the evening in heavy rain. Seemed right to give an enthusiastic Wojciech some driving lessons. So Wojciech learnt to drive a manual car without power steering in the middle of a mexican jungle in heavy rain and dimming light. He did fairly well. That took us to Merida, since we reached Chichen-Itza too late. Not that either of us cared about the tourist trap.

After downing several tacos, empanadas and other typical Mexican street food, we left for Miguel Colorado. The only reason being a Cenote, or a sinkhole, which was not overflowing with tourists, was in a middle of a jungle and had clear water with fish. Little did we know we could also zipline! We got pretty late so we tried to crash on an old village road, only to wake up a bewildered family with barking dogs, We quickly escapes the scene and crashed in the car on a deserted road leading to a ranch. 

Barred Antshrike (female)

At Miguel Colorado, we met Raul, and by that time we had picked up broken Spanish through

Wojciech's Spanish tutorials in the car. We tried to use our broken Sanish but thoroughly confused Raul. That is when Bronco heard us and helped us out. Bronco was a typical US-returned Mexican. He was back after a 19 year drug-dealing cum contract-killing stint in Nebraska, and was now happily married in Escarcega with a wife and three kids. He was now a philanthropist. With Bronco's help we convinced Raul to leave us deep into the forest overnight and take us to the lake the next day. We did exactly that - camped at the edge of an untrodden sinkhole, from which at least a million bats rushed out in huge spirals at 6 pm. Bat Hawks lined the trees as the bats were surging out and they all grabbed meals before flying off. The bats were followed by a dozen Barn Owls and we heard Ferruginous Pygmy-Owls and Eastern Screech-Owls hoot the onset of night. 

Black-Bellied Plover (winter plumage)

The next day we birded around the sinkhole and we saw an adult Crane Hawk finally. A Grey Fox, wild papayas (which were indeed quite tasty) and three more hidden cenotes rounded up the morning's adventures. As if we hadn't been through enough mosquito trouble already, we gulped down three entire fish and moved on to the lake in the middle of the jungle. Middle of the jungle meant an hour's motorcycle ride with Raul and his friend Anthony from Miguel Colorado. And of course we got eaten alive by mosquitoes again. But it was totally worth it - Spider Monkeys, Collared Trogons, Black-Headed Trogons, a White-Striped Woodcreeper and a Dusky Hummingbird made appearances in the middle of the day. The lake was shrouded in tranquility and the view was breathtaking.

Black-Cheeked Woodpecker

After discovering that Raul had his own Mayan ruins in his ranch and that his mother was a Mayan speaker herself, we bid farewell to a teary Raul, his family, their pug Athenas and a Red-Lored Parrot as we made our way to Palenque in Chiapas. The Palenque ruins were beautiful beyond description and a noisy group of Black Howler Monkeys made up for the lack of wildlife for the day. After pouring through the descriptions of Mayan culture and tradition, we headed off to Montes Azules National Park - our aim was to camp in the middle of the cloud forests and wake up to the calls of Resplendant Quetzals and Scarlet Macaws. We had no idea what we were getting into!

Black-Headed Saltator

As we were driving along the untarred route to Montes Azules from the western side, we were

stopped by two drunk teens looking for a ride to their village. Of course we gave them a ride and, luckily enough, we they warned us about threas on the road like burglars and wild animals. We decided to call it a night since it was pretty much midnight and we crashed outside our new friends' home. We had no idea where we were or what we would do next. Every day was a mystery unfolding in front of us.

The next day we left for the national park and, this time, we approached it from the right side through Benemerito and Chajul. We were onto our second manhunt. A few inquiries yielded a name Pepe who had a boat and could possibly take us across the river into the jungle. We asked shopkeepers, housewives, kids on streets and even a man on his roof (no idea what he was up to) and finally tracked down Pepe. As expected he was surprised by our request, and luckily his charming daughter helped translate both ways. Within 15 minutes we were in a boat crossing the Rio Lacantun to the midst of the National Park. Pepe and his daughter were more scared than us as we had no idea what we were signing up for. Camping in the cloud forests. Sounded pretty awesome.

Blue Grosbeak

It was only after we were left alone in the densest of vine-tangled jungles shrouded in darkness that we felt the pinch. It was not just scary - it was creepy and the entire jungle was springing to life - mammals of all types were waking up, and so were the snakes, giant spiders and nighthawks. We set up camp and sat inside trembling at the thought of an approaching jaguar. Sure enough the Jaguar came by at around midnight, to drink from the river. Wojciech heard growling and I heard footsteps throughout the night. Neither of us slept well - we were continuously plotting escape routes and defense strategies in our minds as the possibility of a Jaguar attack loomed larger. 

Blue-Crowned Motmot

As soon as the sun rose, we discussed how lucky we were to survive the night and vowed never to take such a big risk again. The morning proved extremely fruitful as we spotted Montezuma Oropendolas, Collared Aracaris, Russet Antshrikes, Long-Tailed Hermits and Black-Cheeked Woodpeckers among many other species. Once we crossed back to Chajul and related our stories, even Pepe agreed never to let anyone in the jungle overnight. A new unwritten law had been passed in Chajul.

We made our way out of Chajul, only to find our car leaking motor oil at the rate of the Victoria Falls. A garage on the border of Guatemala was our only hope as they replaced a faulty oil filter with another faulty one, with Florenzo claiming it would only last a day. We got the right filter at Benemerito and I drove 12 hours straight to Merida. We finally made it into Chichen-Itza, which was as touristy as we had imagined, and then headed to Tulum. A full day's worth of snorkeling in sinkholes, coastal reefs and bays followed and we swam with sea turtles and rays. Of course I lost my glasses in the process (i wonder how I'm gonna explain losing my glasses in a Mexican sinkhole to my parents) and I wore Wojciech's glasses to drive while he used his optically corrected snorkel mask. Yes, we looked ludicrous, but that was the only solution!

A list of all the birds spotted on the trip:

Crane Hawk (juvenile)

1. American White Pelican - several around Isla Holbox and Isla Pajaros
2. Brown Pelican - several at Isla Holbox
3. Double-Crested Cormorant - 12 at Isla Holbox
4. Neotropic Cormorant - many at Isla Holbox
5. Magnificent Frigatebird - many at Holbox and Chiquila
6. Bare-Throated Tiger-Heron - 1 at Holbox while kayaking through mangroves
7. Great Blue Heron - several including one in white morph at Holbox
8. Great Egret - many around Holbox
9. Little Blue Heron - many around Holbox
10. Reddish Egret - 3 at Isla Pajaros
11. Cattle Egret - 3 in Miguel Colorado
12. Green Heron - 2 in Holbox
13. Black-Crowned Night Heron - 2 in Holbox
14. White Ibis - 4 in Holbox while kayaking
15. Wood Stork - 1 in Holbox

Great Blue Heron (white morph)

16. Black Vulture - Hundreds everywhere
17. Turkey Vulture - Many throughout Mexico
18. Savanna Vulture - 2 at Chajul
19. Osprey - 2 in Holbox
20. White-Tailed Kite - 1 near Solferino
21. Crane Hawk - 1 juvenile in Yum Balam, 1 adult in Miguel Colorado
22. Common Black-Hawk - 2 in Yum Balam
23. Gray Hawk - 3 in Yum Balam
24, Roadside Hawk - 2 in Yum Balam
25. Collared Micrastur - 1 in Yum Balam
26. Laughing Falcon - 1 calling in Yum Balam
27. Bat Falcon - 4 in Miguel Colorado near the sinkhole with bats
28. Plain Chachalaca - 6 in Yum Balam
29. Montezuma Quail - 2 in Montes Azules
30. Limpkin - 2 in Holbox
31. Black-Bellied Plover - 2 in Holbox
32. Spotted Sandpiper - 2 in Holbox
33. Pectoral Sandpiper - 1 in Holbox

Gray Saltator

34. Ruddy Turnstone - 5 in Holbox, 1 in Chiquila
35. Western Sandpiper - 2 in Holbox
36. Ring-Billed Gull - 2 in Holbox
37. Herring Gull - 1 in Holbox
38. Bonaparte's Gull - many in Holbox
39. Royal Tern - many in Holbox
40. Sandwich Tern - many in Holbox
41. Blue Rock Dove - many in towns
42. Red-Billed Pigeon - 4 in Yum Balam
43. Mourning Dove - many in Holbox
44. White-Winged Dove - 4 in Yum Balam
45. Common Ground-Dove - 2 in Yum Balam
46. Ruddy Ground-Dove - many especially near the Guatemala border
47. Blue Ground-Dove - 2 near Guatemala border
48. Grey-Chested Dove - 1 in Palenque
49. Ruddy Quail-Dove - 2 in Montes Azules
50. Green Parakeet - 5 in Miguel Colorado

Gray Hawk

51. Aztec Parakeet - many in Solferino
52. Orange-Chinned Parakeet - 3 at Chajul
53. White-Fronted Parrot - 1 in Miguel Colorado
54. Red-Lored Parrot - 1 in Miguel Colorado
55. Squirrel Cuckoo - 4 in Holbox, 1 in Miguel Colorado
56. Smooth-Billed Ani - several in Miguel Colorado
57. Groove-Billed Ani - many in the entire countryside
58. Barn Owl - 12 at Miguel Colorado coming from the sinkhole
59. Eastern Screech-Owl - 2 calling at Miguel Colorado
60. Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl - 1 calling at Miguel Colorado
61. Common Nighthawk - 1 in Montes Azules
62. White-Collared Swift - 2 in Miguel Colorado
63. Long-Tailed Hermit - 1 in Montes Azules
64. Dusky Hummingbird - 1 in Miguel Colorado

Keel-Billed Toucan

65. Buff-Bellied Hummingbird - 1 in Yum Balam
66. White-Bellied Emerald - 1 in Montes Azules
67. Canivet's Emerald - 1 in Yum Balam
68. Black-Headed Trogon - 2 in Miguel Colorado
69. Collared Trogon - 2 in Miguel Colorado
70. Blue-Crowned Motmot - 1 in Yum Balam
71. Turquoise-Browed Motmot - 1 in Montes Azules
72. Blue-Throated Motmot -1 in Montes Azules
73. Green Kingfisher - 1 in Montes Azules
74. Emerald Toucanet - 1 in Palenque
75. Collared Aracari - 1 in Montes Azules
76. Keel-Billed Toucan - 1 in Yum Balam, 2 in Montes Azules
77. Black-Cheeked Woodpecker - 2 in Montes Azules
78. Golden-Fronted Woodpecker - 1 in Yum Balam
79. Yucatan Woodpecker - 1 in Yum Balam
80. Pale-Billed Woodpecker - 1 in Montes Azules

Magnificent Frigatebird

81. Ruddy Leafgleaner - 2 in Montes Azules
82. Laughing Woodcreeper - 1 in Montes Azules
83. White-Striped Woodcreeper - 1 in Miguel Colorado
84. Barred Antshrike - 3 in Yum Balam, 1 in Montes Azules
85. Russet Antshrike - 1 in Montes Azules
86. Greenish Elaenia - 1 in Yum Balam
87. Yellow-Bellied Elaenia - 1 in Yum Balam
88. Tufted Flycatcher - 1 in Montes Azules
89. Vermillion Flycatcher - 3 in Yum Balam
90. Rufous Mourner - 2 in Montes Azules
91. Great Kiskadee - 3 in Yum Balam
92. Boat-Billed Flycatcher - 1 in Yum Balam
93. Social Flycatcher - many everywhere
94. Tropical Kingbird - 3 in Yum Balam
95. Western Kingbird - 1 in Yum Balam
96. Cassin's Kingbird - 1 in Yum Balam
97. Rose-Throated Becard - 1 in Montes Azules
98. Mangrove Vireo - 1 in Holbox

Osprey

99. Green Jay - 3 in Miguel Colorado, 1 in Montes Azules
100. Brown Jay - several in Miguel Colorado, Yum Balam and Montes Azules
101. Yucatan Jay - several in Yum Balam
102. Unicolored Jay - 1 in Montes Azules
103. Common Raven 1 in Montes Azules
104. Tree Swallow - many in Holbox
105. Northern Rough-Winged Swallow - 3 in Yum Balam
106. Brown Creeper - 1 in Montes Azules
107. Wood Thrush - 1 in Montes Azules
108. Louisiana Waterthrush - 1 in Holbox
109. Gray Catbird - 2 in Yum Balam
110. Black Catbird - several in Yum Balam
111. Tropical Mockingbird - many throughout Mexico
112. Blue-Winged Warbler - 2 in Yum Balam
113. Yellow Warbler - 2 in Holbox
114. Mangrove Warbler - 2 in Holbox
115. Yellow-Rumped Warbler - 3 in Yum Balam

Painted Bunting

116. Black-Throated Green Warbler - 2 in Yum Balam
117. Pine Warbler - 1 in Yum Balam
118. Black-and-White Warbler - 2 in Yum Balam
119. American Redstart - 2 in Holbox
120. Prothonotary Warbler - 1 in Yum Balam
121. Common Yellowthroat - several in Yum Balam
122. Gray-Headed Tanager - 1 in Yum Balam
123. Rose-Throated Tanager - 3 in Yum Balam
124. White-Winged Tanager - 1 female in Montes Azules
125. Yellow-Throated Euphonia - 4 in Holbox
126. Yellow-Faced Grassquit - 5 in Yum Balam
127. Blue-Black Grassquit - 1 in Yum Balam
128. Olive Sparrow - 2 in Yum Balam
129. Gray Saltator - 4 in Yum Balam, 2 in Montes Azules
130. Buff-THroated Saltator - 2 in Yum Balam
131. Black-Headed Saltator - 2 in Yum Balam

Roadside Hawk

132. Black-Faced Saltator - 1 in Montes Azules
133. Blue-Black Grosbeak - 4 in Yum Balam
134. Blue Grosbeak - 2 in Miguel Colorado
135. Rose-Breasted Grosbeak - 6 in Miguel Colorado
136. Yellow Grosbeak - 1 in Yum Balam
137. Northern Cardinal - 4 in Yum Balam
138. Painted Bunting - 1 in Miguel Colorado
139. Singing Blackbird - 3 in Yum Balam
140. Great-Tailed Grackle - Hundreds in Cancun
141. Bronzed Cowbird - 3 in Miguel Colorado
142. Wagler's Oriole - 2 in Yum Balam
143. Hooded Oriole - 2 in Montes Azules
144. Yellow-Tailed Oriole - 1 in Yum Balam
145. Altamira Oriole - 6 in Yum Balam
146. Yellow-Billed Cacique - 3 in Montes Azules
147. Montezuma Oropendola - 2 in Montes Azules
148. Black-Headed Siskin - 2 in Yum Balam
149. Lesser Goldfinch - 1 in Yum Balam
150. Lawrence's Goldfinch - 3 in Yum Balam

Until next time!

Royal Tern

Ruddy Turnstone

Sandwich Tern

Social Flycatcher

Squirrel Cuckoo (juvenile)

Vermillion Flycatcher

Yucatan Jay

Yucatan Woodpecker

Canivet's Emerald

Launching Project AviPulse : Technology for Bird Conservation

After several months of relentless efforts by Bhavin Chandarana, Pallavi Hujband and myself, Project AviPulse www.avipulse.com has finally launched! I have always wanted to give back to nature nad to the avian fauna the world offers - And the time has come. Project AviPulse has emerged out of a passion for birds, birdwatching, ornithology and now bird conservation.

Project AviPulse aims to improve bird conservation through:

• Creation of knowledge
• Generation of awareness
• Appropriate use of technology

We implement cutting edge technology, through collaborations with research institutes like IIT Madras and IIT Bombay, that aid in census, bird identification and bird conservation as a whole.

Current work focuses on:

• Sound processing tool for bird identification from calls / recordings (IIT Bombay collaboration)

• Image processing tool for bird identification from images (IIT Mandi collaboration)
• Comprehensive database creation for bird features to aid in bird identification via a feature-based probabilistic search
• Bird visualization tool to interactively identify a bird based on observations made in the field (University of California, Berkeley collaboration)
• Field trips and on-field conservation activities

Apart from these, we also develop databases for research and education purposes and are currently developing a curriculum for wildlife conservation as a course to be taught to school students.

The Impact

Once established, tools developed by Project AviPulse  can be used by scientists, naturalists and bird-watchers around the world. The impact areas are:

• Census : The sound processing tool is being developed specifically to be able to identify species from their calls. This could improve census studies and numbering endangered species
• Education and generation of awareness : The Bird identification tools using image and sound processing and the probabilistic search tool can help in easily identifying species. This will generate interest and the need for bird conservation can be developed.
• Exploration : The data visualization tool can be used for education and exploration purposes, in order to visualize the biodiversity in avifauna in the world backed by a database of distribution ranges for each species

The tools designed will impact all levels of individuals - scientists, naturalists, professional bird-watchers, amateur bird-watchers and students who just want to explore the amazing diversity in the avifauna of their home country! We will be one step closer in  promoting bird conservation through knowledge creation and generation of awareness.

Risks & Challenges

Since Project AviPulse is a collection of research projects implemented as tools for a social cause, we receive support from several organizations like WWF and BirdLife International for our activities. There are minimal risks in terms of competition due to the technologies being implemented, and all the tools would be free for use as web applications, thus further promoting dispersion of knowledge. The main challenges foreseen are:

• Access to data for development of databases : Since this is a niche field, the data required to develop the databases are not available and need to be generated. We are currently generating an exhaustive feature-based database for the birds of India. In order to expand to all the birds of the world, immense effort will have to be put into database generation.
• Collaborative work : In order to promote this form of knowledge and data-driven bird conservation, efforts will have to be put into making this available and known to people in developing countries of Africa, South-East Asia and Central America. For this to work out, collaborations with organizations (particularly Audubon societies or equivalent conservation societies) would be necessary to be able to distribute this knowledge

Project AviPulse is taking one major step ahead in technology towards the cause of bird conservation.

Krau Forest, Malaysia, 28.09.2014

The GCSM 2014 in Johor Bahru gave me a great opportunity to check out the birds of peninsular Malaysia for a day. I could have probably done better, but diving took priority over the extra week I spent there.

In any case, I met Mr. Wong in Kuala Lumpur and we drove to Genting Highlands and then to Krau forest for some scenic views and interesting birding. It was a hot sultry day, and the birds were difficult to come by, but we tried to get the best of the Broadbills.

The list of birds spotted:

Collared Kingfisher

1. Little Egret - 2 in Mersing
2. Lesser Sand Plover - Several in Mersing
3. Kentish Plover -  Plenty in Mersing
4. Common Sandpiper - 2 in Mersing
5. White-Winged Tern - 4 in Tioman
6. Rock Pigeon - Several in KL
7. Emerald Dove - 2 in Krau Forest
8. Zebra Dove - Several in Mersing
9. Asian Koel - 4 in Tioman
10. Chestnut-Breasted Malkoha - 6 in Krau Forest
11. Raffles's Malkoha - 5 in Krau Forest
12. Red-Billed Malkoha - 1 in Krau Forest
13. Pacific Swift - 2 in Tioman
14. House Swift - 1 near Genting Highlands
15. Scarlet-Rumped Trogon - 1 in Krau Forest
16. Banded Kingfisher - 1 in Krau Forest

Banded Kingfisher

17. Collared Kingfisher - 2 in Mersing
18. Red-Bearded Bee-Eater - 1 in Krau Forest
19. Black Hornbill - 4 in Krau Forest
20. Brown Barbet - 1 in Krau Forest
21. Gold-Whiskered Barbet - 1 in Krau Forest
22. Crimson-Winged Woodpecker - 2 in Krau Forest
23. Long-Tailed Parakeet - 1 in Krau Forest
24. Black-and-red Broadbill - 2 in Krau Forest
25. Banded Broadbill - 1 in Krau Forest
26. Black-and-yellow Broadbill - 2 in Krau Forest
27. Dusky Broadbill - 6 in Krau Forest
28. Malayan Banded-Pitta - 2 in Krau Forest
29. Dark-Throated Oriole - 1 in Krau Forest
30. Bronzed Drongo - 2 in Krau Forest
31. Black-Naped Monarch - 2 in Krau Forest
32. House Crow - several in KL

Black Hornbill

33. Large-Billed Crow - few in Mersing
34. Yellow-Vented Bulbul - 1 on Genting Highlands
35. Mountain Bulbul - 2 on Genting Highlands
36. Red-Whiskered Bulbul - 1 in Krau Forest
37. Mountain Tailorbird - 1 on Genting Highlands
38. Rufous-Tailed Tailorbird - 1 in Krau Forest
39. Mountain Leaf Warbler - 3 on Genting Highlands
40. White-Chested Babbler - 2 in Krau Forest
41. Horsfield's Babbler - 1 in Krau Forest
42. Streaked Wren-Babbler - 2 on Genting Highlands
43. White-Browed Shrike-Babbler - 1 on Genting Highlands
44. Chestnut-Capped Laughingthrush - 6 on Genting Highlands
45. Malayan Laughingthrush - 1 on Genting Highlands

Black-and-red Broadbill

46. Long-Tailed Sibia - 4 on Genting Highlands
47. Bar-Throated Minla - 4 on Genting Highlands
48. Oriental Magpie Robin - 5 on Genting Highlands
49. Large Niltava - 1 on Genting Highlands
50. Asian Glossy Starling - 4 in Krau Forest
51. Common Myna - several in KL and Mersing
52. Javan Myna - 3 in Mersing
53. Lesser Green Leafbird - 2 in Krau Forest
54. Blue-Winged Leafbird - 1 in Krau Forest
55. Black-Throated Sunbird - 1 in Krau Forest
56. Gray Wagtail - 3 on Genting Highlands
57. Eurasian Tree Sparrow - several in Malaysia

Black-and-yellow Broadbill

Dusky Broadbill

Large Niltava

Crimson-Winged Woodpecker

Scarlet-Rumped Trogon

Mountain Bulbul

Mountain Leaf Warbler

Bar-Throated Minla

Chestnut-Capped Laughingthrush

Streaked Wren-Babbler

Chasing 300: Kenya, 21.07.2014 - 28.07.2014

300. That was the target before stepping onto African soil, on an action-packed adventure that would last 7 days with plenty of drama and excitement. Getting stuck in the middle of the grasslands next to an approaching elephant and being accused of poaching by the Masais were entertaining moments, but none of that could even compare to the Panamanian absurdity over Spring break. . .

Trip report with the final species count:

22.07.2014: Nairobi to Baringo via Naivasha : 103 species
23.07.2014: Baringo : 78 species (Total - 181 species)
24.07.2014: Baringo to Kakamega : 19 species (Total - 220 species)
25.07.2014: Kakamega : 45 species (Total - 265 species)
26.07.2014: Kakamega to Masai Mara : 28 species (Total - 293 species)
27.07.2014: Masai Mara to Nairobi : 22 species (Total - 315 species)

As expected, all the common birds rocketed the bird count on the first day to over 100 species in spite of a 350 km drive to Baringo. Subsequent days threw up fewer species, and the target was always in danger until a frenzied day in Kakamega boosted the count up to 265 species by the end of the 4th day. With Masai Mara to come, 300 looked imminent and was easily overhauled on the final day.

All the specialties were up on display as the Blue-Headed Bee-Eater made an appearance at Kakamega and the Long-Toed Lapwing was an exquisite sight in the Mara. 4 species of Turacos, 2 Bustards and 11 Barbet species made the trip a memorable one. The Goliath Heron, considered a mysterious species in India, was out in Lake Baringo as well, which made the unsuccessful search for the Senegal Thick-Knee somewhat fruitful.

Special thanks to Joseph Aengwo from Baringo, whose expertise in African birds made the uncertain target of 300 easily attainable by the end of the journey. Visit http://kenyabirding.wordpress.com/ for his adventures with African birds! He is a good contact for birding tips and tours in Kenya and can be contacted at joe.aengwo@gmail.com. 

The entire birds list in taxonomic order:

African Citril

1. Common Ostrich - 3 in Baringo, several in Masai Mara
2. Great White Pelican - Several flying over Lake Naivasha
3. Pink-Backed Pelican - 1 sitting out in Lake Naivasha
4. Little Grebe - 3 in Limuru swamp
5. Great Cormorant - 4 in Naivasha
6. Long-Tailed Cormorant - Abundant in Naivasha and Baringo lakes
7. African Darter - Abundant in Lake Baringo
8. Little Bittern - 1 nicely hidden in the reedy isles on Lake Baringo
9. Black-Crowned Night Heron - 1 along the shore of the main island on Lake Baringo
10. Cattle Egret - Several along Baringo and areas of cultivation
11. Common Squacco Heron - Many in Lake Baringo
12. Striated Heron - 5 in Lake Baringo
13. Rufous-Bellied Heron - 1 in Masai Mara

African Mourning Dove

14. Little Egret - 4 in Lake Baringo
15. Intermediate Egret - 2 in Lake Baringo
16. Great Egret - Several in Lake Baringo
17. Goliath Heron - 4 in Lake Baringo
18. Purple Heron - 3 in Lake Baringo
19. Grey Heron - Several in Naivasha, Baringo and Masa Mara wetlands
20. Black-Headed Heron - 1 in Naivasha and 2 in Masai Mara
21. Hamerkop - 5 in Lake Baringo
22. Yellow-Billed Stork - Plenty in Naivasha, Baringo and Masai Mara
23. African Open-Billed Stork - Large flock flying over Baringo
24. Saddle-Billed Stork - 2 in Masai Mara
25. Marabou Stork - Abundant all across Kenya, specially in areas of Nairobi
26. Sacred Ibis - Several in Naivasha, Baringo and Masai Mara
27. Hadada Ibis - 3 in Naivasha, several in Kakamega
28. Glossy Ibis - 4 in Limuru swamp

African Pygmy Kingfisher

29. African Spoonbill - 1 in Limuru swamp
30. Egyptian Goose - 2 in Naivasha, several along the Masai river
31. White-Faced Whistling Duck - Large flock in Limuru swamp
32. Maccoa Duck - 1 in Limuru swamp
33. Red-Billed Teal - 2 in Limuru swamp
34. Hottentot Teal - 4 in Limuru swamp
35. White-Backed Duck - 1 in Limuru swamp
36. Yellow-Billed Duck - Several in Limuru swamp ad few in Masai Mara wetlands
37. Black Kite - Several in Nairobi and outskirts
38. Secretary Bird - 2 in Masai Mara
39. African Fish Eagle - 1 juvenile in Lake Baringo, 2 adults in Masai Mara
40. Osprey - 1 in Lake Baringo
41. White-Headed Vulture - 2 in Masai Mara
42. African White-Backed Vulture - Several in Masai Mara
43. Ruppel's Griffon Vulture - Several in Masai Mara

African Scops Owl

44. Lappet-Faced Vulture - 2 at kills in Masai Mara
45. Black-Chested Snake Eagle - 2 in Masai Mara
46. Brown Snake-Eagle - 1 in Masai Mara
47. Shikra - 1 in Kakamega
48. African Harrier-Hawk - 1 flying across at Lolgorian near Masai Mara
49. Augur Buzzard - Several in Baringo, Masai Mara and along the way
50. Tawny Eagle - Several in Masai Mara
51. Bateleur - 2 in Masai Mara
52. Long-Crested Eagle - 1 in Lolgorian near Masai Mara
53. Verreaux's Eagle - 1 near the Baringo cliffs
54. African Crowned Eagle - 2 in Kakamega
55. Common Kestrel - 1 on the way out of Masai Mara
56. Lanner Falcon - 1 flying overhead in Baringo
57. Peregrine Falcon - 1 in Lake Baringo
58. Taita Falcon - 1 in the open woodland area of Masai Mara

African Spoonbill

59. Helmeted Guineafowl - Large flock in Masai Mara along the Masai river
60. Crested Francolin - 2 in Baringo
61. Red-Necked Spurfowl - 2 in Masai Mara near the Masai river
62. Black Crake - Several in Lake Baringo and Masai Mara wetlands
63. Purple Swamphen - Few in Limuru swamp and in Lake Baringo
64. Red-Knobbed Coot - Several in Limuru swamp
65. Common Moorhen - Several in Limuru swamp and Lake Baringo
66. African Jacana - Common in Limuru swamp, Lakes Naivasha and Baringo and Masai Mara wetlands
67. Grey Crowned Crane - 2 in Masai Mara
68. White-Bellied Bustard - 2 in Masai Mara
69. Hartlaub's Bustard - 1 in Masai Mara
70. Spotted Thick-Knee - 2 in Baringo

African White-Backed Vulture

71. Temminck's Courser - 2 in Masai Mara
72. Heuglin's Courser - 3 in Baringo
73. Blacksmith Lapwing - 3 in Limuru swamp
74. Spur-Winged Lapwing - Very common around wetlands of Masai Mara
75. Long-Toed Lapwing - 1 in Masai Mara wetland
76. African Wattled Lapwing - 4 in Masai Mara
77. Crowned Lapwing - Several in Masai Mara
78. Black-Winged Lapwing - 5 in Masai Mara
79. Wood Sandpiper - 3 in Masai Mara wetlands
80. Grey-Headed Gull - 1 in Naivasha
81. Yellow-Throated Sandgrouse - 2 in Masai Mara
82. African Green Pigeon - 4 in Kakamega
83. Speckled Pigeon - Several in Baringo and Nairobi outskirts
84. Emerald-Spotted Wood-Dove - 1 in Baringo, 1 near Masai Mara
85. Ring-Necked Dove - Abundant in all places
86. Red-Eyed Dove - 1 in Kakamega, 2 in Masai Mara

Arrow-Marked Babbler

87. African Mourning Dove - Several in Baringo and Masai Mara
88. Laughing Dove - 4 in Baringo
89. Dusky Turtle Dove - 1 near Kisii on the way to Masai Mara from kakamega
90. Brown Parrot - 6 in Masai Mara near the river
91. Fischer's Lovebird - 3 in Naivasha
92. Great Blue Turaco - 4 in Kakamega
93. Ross's Turaco - 1 in Iten
94. White-Crested Turaco - 3 on the way to Kakamega from Baringo
95. Schalow's Turaco - 1 in Masai Mara
96. White-Bellied Go-away-bird - 3 in Baringo
97. Diederik Cuckoo - 2 flying in Baringo
98. African Emerald Cuckoo - 1 male in Kakamega
99. White-Browed Coucal - 1 in Baringo
100. African Scops Owl - 1 in Baringo
101. White-Faced Scops Owl - 2 in Baringo
102. Verreaux's Eagle-Owl - 1 in Lake Baringo, 1 on the way to Kakamega from Baringo

Baglafecht Weaver

103. Spotted Eagle-Owl - 1 in Baringo, 1 subsp. Greyish Eagle-Owl in Baringo
104. Slender-Tailed Nightjar - 5 in Baringo
105. Little Swift - Several in all areas
106. White-Runped Swift - 4 in Baringo
107. Mottled Swift - 1 in Baringo
108. African Black Swift - 1 near Iten
109. Nyanza Swift - 4 in Iten
110. Speckled Mousebird - Several in Baringo and Masai Mara
111. Blue-Naped Mousebird - 6 in Baringo
112. Pied Kingfisher - Abundant in Lake Baringo
113. Grey-Headed Kingfisher - 1 in Baringo, 1 in Masai Mara
114. Giant Kingfisher - 1 in Lake Baringo
115. Woodland Kingfisher - 4 in Baringo
116. Malachite Kingfisher - Several in Lake Baringo
117. African Pygmy Kingfisher - 5 in and around Lake Baringo
118. Little Bee-Eater - 5 on the way to Kakamega from Baringo, 2 in Kakamega, 2 in Masai Mara

Blue-Naped Mousebird

119. Cinnamon-Chested Bee-Eater - 4 in Kakamega
120. White-Throated Bee-Eater - 5 in Baringo
121. Blue-Headed Bee-Eater - 2 in Kakamega
122. Madagascar Bee-Eater - Several in Lake Baringo
123. Lilac-Breasted Roller - Several in Masai Mara
124. Rufous-Crowned Roller - 1 on the way to Kakamega from Baringo
125. Green Wood-Hoopoe - 1 in Naivasha
126. Violet Wood-Hoopoe - 5 on the way to Kakamega from Baringo
127. White-Headed Wood-Hoopoe - 2 in Kakamega
128. African Hoopoe - 1 in Baringo
129. Red-Billed Hornbill - 4 in Baringo
130. Jackson's Hornbill - Several in Baringo
131. Hemprich's Hornbill - 3 in Baringo

Brown Snake-Eagle

132. African Grey Hornbill - 1 flying across in Baringo
133. Crowned Hornbill - 2 on the way to Kakamega from Baringo
134. Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill - Several in Kakamega
135. Southern Ground-Hornbill - 3 near Lolgorian
136. Yellow-Rumped Tinkerbird - 1 in Kakamega
137. Grey-Throated Barbet - 7 in Kakamega
138. Red-Fronted Tinkerbird - 2 in Baringo
139. Red-Fronted Barbet - 1 in Baringo
140. Spot-Flanked Barbet - 3 in Masai Mara
141. Black-Throated Barbet - 1 in Baringo
142. Yellow-Spotted Barbet - 1 in Kakamega
143. Double-Toothed Barbet - 1 near Lolgorian
144. D'Arnaud's Barbet - 4 in Baringo
145. Red-and-Yellow Barbet - 1 on the way from Baringo to Kakamega
146. Yellow-Billed Barbet - 2 in Kakamega
147. Buff-Spotted Woodpecker - 2 in Kakamega

Common Ostrich

148. Nubian Woodpecker - 2 in Naivasha, 1 in Masai Mara
149. Cardinal Woodpecker - 2 in Masai Mara
150. Bearded Woodpecker - 2 in Lake Baringo
151. Yellow-Crested Woodpecker - 2 in Kakamega
152. Grey Woodpecker - 1 in Baringo
153. Rufous-Naped Lark - 5 in Masai Mara
154. Somali Short-Toed lark - 2 in Masai Mara
155. Pink-Breasted Lark - 1 in Baringo
156. Red-Capped Lark - Several in Masai Mara
157. Rock Martin - Several in Iten
158. Plain Martin - 2 in Limuru swamp
159. Red-Rumped Swallow - Several in Baringo and Iten
160. Lesser Striped Swallow - 2 in Baringo
161. Barn Swallow - 5 in Lake Baringo
162. Wire-Tailed Swallow - Several in Naivasha and Baringo
163. Black Saw-wing - 2 in Kakamega

Crowned Hornbill

164. White-Headed Saw-wing - 6 in Kakamega
165. African Pied Wagtail - Several in Baringo, Naivasha and Masai Mara wetlands
166. Mountain Wagtail - 2 in Kakamega
167. Yellow-Throated Longclaw - 1 in Kakamega
168. Grassland Pipit - Abundant in Masai Mara
169. Plain-Backed Pipit - 5 in Masai Mara
170. Common Bulbul - Several in Baringo and Masai Mara
171. Yellow-Whiskered Greenbul - 6 in Kakamega
172. Little Greenbul - 1 in Kakamega
173. Shelley's Greenbul - 5 in Kakamega
174. Northern Brownbul - 2 in Baringo
175. Cabanis's Greenbul - 3 in Kakamega
176. Cameroon Sombre Greenbul - 2 in Kakamega
177. Joyful Greenbul - Many in Kakamega
178. Red-Tailed Bristlebill - 5 in Kakamega
179. Brown-Chested Alethe - 2 in Kakamega

Crowned Lapwing

180. Cape Robin-Chat - 1 in Limuru swamp
181. White-Browed Robin-Chat - 2 in Baringo, 1 in Masai Mara
182. Snowy-Headed Robin-Chat - 3 in kakamega
183. Olive Thrush - Many in Kakamega
184. African Thrush - 3 in Kakamega, 2 in Iten
185. Northern Anteater Chat - Several in Masai Mara
186. Cliff Chat - 4 in Iten
187. Sooty Chat - 4 in Masai Mara
188. Common Stonechat - Common near Baringo and Masai Mara
189. White-Browed Scrub-Robin - 5 in Baringo
190. Spotted Morning Thrush - 7 in Baringo
191. Buff-Bellied Warbler - 1 in Baringo
192. Uganda Woodland Warbler - 1 in Kakamega
193. Black-Faced Rufous Warbler - 3 in Kakamega
194. Pectoral-Patch Cisticola - 3 in Masai Mara
195. Zitting Cisticola - 2 in Masai Mara

Emerald-Spotted Wood-Dove

196. Stout Cisticola - 1 in Kakamega
197. Rattling Cisticola - 1 in Masai Mara
198. Winding Cisticola - 1 in Limuru swamp
199. Hunter's Cisticola - 3 on the way to Baringo from Nairobi
200. Chubb's Cisticola - 1 in Kakamega
201. Red-Fronted Warbler - 3 in Baringo
202. Tawny-Flanked Prinia - 1 in Masai Mara
203. White-Chinned Prinia - 2 in Kakamega
204. Grey-Backed Camaroptera - 4 in Baringo
205. Grey Wren-Warbler - 6 in Baringo
206. Yellow-Breasted Apalis - 3 in Baringo
207. White-Eyed Slaty Flycatcher - Several in Naivasha and Baringo
208. Northern Black Flycatcher - 1 in Baringo
209. African Grey Flycatcher - 4 in Baringo
210. Pale Flycatcher - 2 in Masai Mara
211. Gambaga Flycathcer - 1 on the way to Kakamega from Baringo
212. African Dusky Flycatcher - 2 in Masai Mara

Fischer's Lovebird

213. Pygmy Batis - 2 in Baringo
214. Brown-Throated Wattle-eye - 1 in Kakamega
215. African Paradise Flycatcher - 3 in Baringo, 1 in Kakamega
216. Silverbird - 1 in Masai Mara on the way out
217. Dusky Crested-Flycatcher - 1 in Kakamega
218. African Blue Flycatcher - 2 in Kakamega
219. Mountain Illadopsis - 4 in Kakamega
220. Brown Illadopsis - 2 in Kakamega
221. Grey-Chested Illadopsis - 3 in Kakamega
222. Rufous Chatterer - 3 in Baringo
223. Arrow-Marked Babbler  - 4 in Naivasha
224. Black-Lored Babbler - 2 in Naivasha
225. White-Bellied Tit - 3 in Naivasha
226. Mouse-Colored Penduline-Tit - 2 in Baringo
227. Yellow White-Eye - 2 on the way to Masai Mara from Kakamega
228. Abyssinian White-Eye - 1 on the way to Kakamega from Baringo
229. Bronze Sunbird - Several in Kakamega

Gambaga Flycatcher

230. Golden-Winged Sunbird - 2 on the outskirts of Nairobi
231. Malachite Sunbird - 1 on the way to Baringo from Nairobi
232. Green-Headed Sunbird - 4 in Kakamega
233. Eastern Double-Collared Sunbird - 3 in Kakamega
234. Northern Double-Collared Sunbird - 2 in Kakamega
235. Olive-Bellied Sunbird - 1 in Kakamega
236. Marico Sunbird - 1 on the way to Kakamega from Baringo
237. Scarlet-Chested Sunbird - 1 on the way to Baringo from Nairobi
238. Beautiful Sunbird - Several in Baringo and Kakamega
239. Variable Sunbird - Several in Baringo
240. Eastern Violet-Backed Sunbird - 2 in Kakamega
241. Common Fiscal - Very common throughout
242. Grey-Backed Fiscal - 2 on the way to Baringo from Nairobi

Golden-Backed Weaver

243. Mackinnon's Fiscal - 1 in Kakamega
244. Tropical Boubou - 4 in Baringo
245. Slate-Colored Boubou - 2 in Baringo, 1 in Masai Mara
246. Brubru - 3 in Baringo
247. Three-Streaked Tchagra - 1 in Baringo
248. Sulphur-Breasted Bush-Shrike - 1 on the way to Kakamega from Baringo
249. Bocage;s Bush-Shrike - 1 in Kakamega
250. Northern White-Crowned Shrike - 7 in Baringo
251. White-Crested Helmet-Shrike - 1 huge flock in Baringo
252. Fork-Tailed Drongo - Common in Baringo
253. Square-Tailed Drongo - 2 in Kakamega
254. Pied Crow - Abundant in settlements
255. Cape Rook - Common in outskirts and cultivations
256. Fan-Tailed Raven - 3 in Iten
257. African Black-Headed Oriole - 1 in Naivasha

Goliath Heron

258. Western Black-Headed Oriole - 1 in Kakamega
259. Yellow-Billed Oxpecker - 4 in Masai Mara
260. Red-Billed Oxpecker - Several in Masai Mara, mostly preferring African Water Buffalo
261. Stuhlmann's Starling - 3 in Kakamega
262. Red-Winged Starling - 3 in Naivasha
263. Bristle-Crowned Starling - 4 in Baringo
264. Greater Blue-Eared Starling - 2 in Naivasha
265. Ruppel's Long-Tailed Starling - Several in Baringo and Masai Mara
266. Violet-Backed Starling - 1 in Masai Mara
267. Magpie Starling - 3 in Baringo
268. Superb Starling - Abundant throughout
269. Hildebrandt's Starling - 2 in Baringo
270. Wattled Starling - 4 in Naivasha, several in Masai Mara
271. Rufous Sparrow - 2 on the way to Baringo from Nairobi
272. House Sparrow - Common in outskirts
273. Chestnut Sparrow - 2 in Baringo

Black-Winged Lapwing

274. Speckle-Fronted Weaver - 2 in Baringo
275. Grey-Headed Sparrow - Several in Masai Mara
276. Parrot-Billed Sparrow - Several in Baringo
277. Yellow-Spotted Petronia - 4 in Baringo
278. White-Browed Sparrow-Weaver - Abundant in Baringo
279. White-Headed Buffalo-Weaver - 3 in Baringo
280. White-Billed Buffalo-Weaver - 2 in Baringo
281. Black-Headed Weaver - 8 in Baringo
282. Lesser Masked Weaver - 6 in Baringo
283. Vitelline Masked Weaver - 9 in Baringo
284. Northern Masked Weaver - 4 in Baringo
285. Spectacled Weaver - 2 in Masai Mara
286. Black-Necked Weaver - 1 in Kakamega
287. Speke's Weaver - 2 in Naivasha
288. Baglafecht Weaver - 4 in Limuru swamp, 2 in Iten, 2 in Masai Mara
289. Chestnut Weaver - 1 in Baringo

Greater Blue-Eared Starling

290. Little Weaver - 2 in Baringo
291. Golden-Backed Weaver - 4 in Baringo
292. Dark-Backed Weaver - 6 in Kakamega
293. Black-Billed Weaver - 2 in Kakamega
294. Red-Headed Weaver - 2 in Baringo
295. Yellow Bishop - 2 on the way to Baringo from Nairobi
296. Yellow-Mantled Widowbird - 5 in Kakamega
297. Grey-Headed Negrofinch - 2 in Kakamega
298. Green-Winged Pytilia - 2 in Baringo
299. Red-Headed Bluebill - 1 in Kakamega
300. Red-Cheeked Cordon-Bleu - 3 in Iten
301. Purple Grenadier - 2 in Baringo, 2 in Masai Mara
302. Jameson's Firefinch - 3 in Masai Mara
303. Black-and-White Mannikin - 3 in Masai Mara
304. Village Indigobird - 1 in Baringo
305. Yellow-Fronted Canary - 2 in Masai Mara

Heuglin's Courser (Three-Banded Courser)

306. White-Bellied Canary - 1 in Baringo
307. Thick-Billed Seedeater - 1 in Iten
308. African Citril - 2 in Naivasha, 1 in Iten
309. Yellow-Rumped Seedeater - 2 on the way to Masai Mara from Kakamega
310. Streaky Seedeater - Common in Limuru swamp, Baringo and Masai Mara
311. Cinnamon-Breasted Rock Bunting - 2 on the way to Masai Mara from Kakamega
312. African Golden-Breasted Bunting - 2 on the way to Masai Mara from Kakamega

Only calls heard:

313. Red-Chested Cuckoo - 1 heard in Baringo
314. Blue-Shouldered Robin-Chat - 2 in Kakamega
315. Grey-Winged Robin-Chat - 1 in Kakamega

Jackson's Hornbill

Lesser Streaked Swallow

Lilac-Breasted Roller

Long-Crested Eagle

Madagascar Bee-Eater

Malachite Kingfisher

Northern Masked Weaver

Nubian Woodpecker

Pink-Backed Pelican

Red-Billed Hornbill

Red-Cheeked Cordon-Bleu

Red-Fronted Barbet

Red-Fronted Tinkerbird

Red-Headed Weaver

Ring-Necked Dove

Red-Winged Starling

Rufous-Crowned Roller

Sacred Ibis

Saddle-Billed Stork

Silverbird

Slate-Colored Boubou

Slender-Tailed Nightjar

Speckled Mousebird

Speckled Pigeon

Speckle-Fronted Weaver

Spectacled Weaver

Speke's Weaver

Spotted Eagle-Owl

Greyish Eagle-Owl

Spotted Morning Thrush

White-Bellied Bustard

White-Browed Robin-Chat

White-Browed Scrub-Robin

White-Browed Sparrow-Weaver

White-Eyed Slaty Flycatcher

White-Faced Scops Owl

White-Headed Buffalo-Weaver

Woodland Kingfisher

Yellow-Mantled Widowbird

Yellow-Spotted Petronia

The stand-outs were definitely Taita Falcon, Saddle-Billed Stork, Yellow-Throated Sandgrouse, Long-Toed Lapwing and Blue-Headed Bee-Eater. Overall 312 sightings and 3 calls, which is an amazing birding accomplishment over the 7 days which included a lot of travelling.

Joseph and I have already decided on our next destination - Semliki Forests in Uganda. Right next to the border with DRC, it might be a tricky trip; but it is the avian biodiversity that beckons!